Technology: The History of Mascara
From water-based to waterproof, this beauty must-have has come a long way.
By Katherine Flemming
Photography by Carlo Mendoza
3400–30 BC Ancient Egyptians used kohl, a preparation made of ingredients such as soot, copper, lead and burnt almonds, on their lashes. Other kohl mixtures consisted of crocodile dung, honey and onion water. Applicators were sticks of bone, wood, ivory or glass.
1830s While the Victorians were rubbing castor oil onto their lashes, an 1834 beauty book suggested using “lampblack”—ashes created by holding a saucer over an open flame—or elderberry juice to enhance lashes.
1872 Petroleum jelly was patented and quickly became used to plump and gloss lashes.
1880s Pale lashes (considered a birth defect by some) were turned deep chocolate brown when brushed with extracts of walnut hulls.
1917 Cake mascara, a composition of soap and pigment that was applied using a moistened comb, was launched.
1920s Actress Greta Garbo darkened her lengthy, near-white lashes with mascara, provoking other women to do the same. Marlene Dietrich and Bette Davis both relied heavily on mascara to enhance their glamour, but Garbo and Dietrich reportedly refused it on their lower lashes, believing that it created an unflattering shadow.
1920s Cinema makeup artist Max Factor tested his lash thickener on silent-screen siren Theda Bara. His wax mixture was melted over a hot flame, then raked through lashes with upward strokes to bond sets of lashes, or used to tip the ends individually.
1930s Applicators resembling tweezers with brushlike tips, then later sponge tips, rose in popularity. Both were difficult tools to use, and neither proved to have much staying power over the long term.
1930s Due to lack of cosmetic regulation standards, lash dyes containing aniline, a favoured hair-dye ingredient in the early part of the century, left more than one woman blind.
1938 With the arrival of waterproof mascara, women could well up and still stay chic. Its 50 per cent turpentine formula dried quickly, but it smelled awful and caused some allergic reactions.
1958 The wand, a slim metal rod shaped like a fountain pen, was introduced. With its grooved applicator, it grabbed liquid from the base of the tube.
1950s–1960s Synthetic formulas replaced the natural petroleum base in most mascara formulas.
Early 1960s Waterproof but washable, a safe, tube-dispensed mascara competes with layered false eyelashes for Twiggy’s mod lashes.
Beyond Mascaras continue to evolve, expanding the category and the customization of different lash looks—curled, voluminous and lengthened.
Comment on this article
Editor's note: This is a moderated forum, so your comments won't appear until approved by the moderator. Please help us foster a friendly environment by keeping your posts civil and on-point. We reserve the right to delete comments that include foul language, personal attacks on others, sales solicitations or any other inappropriate content. Posted comments reflect the opinions of the poster, not of Fashionmagazine.com. Read our privacy policy for more information.
Ingrid McIntosh writes:
What happened to the end of the article? There have been leaps and bounds in the mascara and makeup biz...since 50 years ago? When recently discovered in the last 10 years that our every day makeup is giving us cancer and other diseases - there was a revelation NO! A revolution! It is called Mineral Makeup and everyone should stop using their mascara that has tar and formaldehyde in it (wondering why your lids are getting red or you have eye allergies?) and start reading labels. Thank you FASHION for mentioning that in the 1950s synthetic formulas replaced natural products - one thing you didn't mention was that it was cheaper to produce and now use TAR for that shine. Time for some honesty and research! Keep going - you'll get there.
—posted August 24, 2006 at 9:34 p.m.
Alan J. Bauman, MD - Hair Restoration Physician writes:
An interesting article for sure. I also agree with Ingrid that there have been exceptional advances in recent years regarding the 'quest' for longer thicker lashes. Beyond simple eyelash extensions (which can, sometimes, even damage your lashes) today, safe and comfortable microsurgical techniques now allow the delicate implantation of scalp hair follicles DIRECTLY INTO THE EYELID--permanently! Eyelash transplantation allows for the reconstruction of eyelashes damaged by trauma, as well as cosmetic enhancement for those with short or sparse lashes who want thicker and LONGER ones. Keep in mind that I do mean LONG! (The 'lashes' implanted during an eyelash transplant need to be routinely trimmed and curled because those new follicles live and grow permanently in the lid!) Most eyelash transplant recipients trim their lashes every few weeks. Currently, there are only a handful of hair transplant surgeons worldwide who routinely perform cosmetic and reconstructive eyelash transplantation. Long live long lashes!
Sincerely, Dr. Alan Bauman--Medical Director/Bauman Medical Group/Boca Raton Florida/Hair Restoration for Men & Women
—posted September 22, 2006 at 7:27 a.m.
morgan writes:
This article really helped me with my social studies project. I just waited until today to do it when i had to weeks. All the other sites ahad nothing. It was really intresting. Who ever had this article is a god send!
- Morgan Senick
—posted March 15, 2007 at 8 p.m.
anonymous writes:
This article really help me with my school work too. Thank goodness I found it. I never realize mascara had such a history, never really thought of it.
—posted March 25, 2007 at 11:59 p.m.
dylan churchill writes:
wow it's pretty on me!!
—posted March 27, 2007 at 9:27 a.m.
Jenna writes:
Hi! I had to write a reaserch paper about makeup and mascara was one of my subtopics, this article totally helped me with my paper. Thanks a bunch! (I got an A on the paper!)
—posted May 7, 2007 at 7:56 p.m.
Spincer Zynx writes:
Congrats! You just saved my vision - I was going to dye my lashes even know I thought it could end badly, but I changed my mind thanks to you. I have a mascara obsession!
—posted July 21, 2007 at 9:32 p.m.
Lara Is Cool writes:
Wow - I did not know that!! Cool.
—posted August 19, 2007 at 8:54 p.m.
Marisso and Chantallio writes:
We're in Tech Ed and this is so cool - we were learning about mascara! Hahahahahaha!
♥C&M
—posted November 5, 2007 at 8:47 a.m.
shae writes:
Extremely helpful article. Thanks.
—posted November 29, 2007 at 11:15 a.m.
rosie writes:
This is a very wonderful article - good job!!
—posted December 21, 2007 at 12:52 p.m.
tay writes:
This is so interesting!! And helpful!
—posted January 11, 2008 at 11:22 p.m.
Your comment