Archive for Lesa Hannah


Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: A disheveled nod to Elvis at Proenza Schouler

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The master of cool, disheveled hair, Paul Hanlon described the look backstage at Proenza Schouler ‘50s-inspired, with a nod to Elvis. “But it’s not too literal because it can obviously look a bit retro, a little bit tacky, so we had to be very careful in the way that we did it.” In Hanlon’s mind, this is a girl who’s borrowed her dad’s pomade and tried to recreate his style but with her own spin on it. Prepping the hair with Fekkai Ocean Wave Spray to create a dry, matte texture, he then applied Fekkai Coiff Forming Wax through the hairline. “Then we’re using a blow-dryer and melting the wax into the hair. That way when it cools down it sets, so it has a lot of hold in the hair.” Employing a men’s barbering comb, the sides were raked up for that ‘50s touch with the volume on top kept low. “I don’t want it to look like a big quiff.” In the back, transparent elastic was sewn into the hair with a tapestry needle to prevent the length from hanging all the way down. Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray and a blow-dryer melted the raw shape into place. “We wanted something tougher and cooler but at the same time quite chic. It’s a continuation of what we did with the hair last season, this idea of very organic, weathered hair.”
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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: Bronzed and braided at Michael Kors

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“It’s Michael’s default bronze position,” said Dick Page of the tawny faces he was creating backstage at Kors to underscore the designer’s safari-themed collection. His team paired the glowing umber with a strong signature Page brow, little bits of gold highlights around the eyes, a touch of brown mascara, and lip colour provided by Shiseido Perfect Rouge in “Caramel” to “unify the tone across the board.” Each girl was brought to Page for any additional bronzing, which he called “the final toast.”

The chunky, matted thick braid created by Orlando Pita had a bit more of a narrative. “These people are on a trip through Africa,” he said. “They have nothing with them to groom themselves with so they take their shoelaces and tie their hair up in braids in the back. Then they try to neaten themselves up, so in the front, they scrape their hair back.” Using a combination of Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, T3 Refresh Volumizing Dry Shampoo, and American Crew Defining Paste to build piece-y texture, he wove hair into two fishtail braids, intertwining leather strings into the plaits, and then joined them together to look like one. “It’s not easy to achieve at home but that’s always my goal, always,” he said. “I don’t want somebody to do these hairdos at home and then I’m out of job.”

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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: Starry starry night at Rodarte

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Makeup artist James Kaliardos was given strict orders by the Mulleavy sisters backstage at Rodarte, with Vincent Van Gogh’s painting  Starry Night as the point of inspiration. “The girls really wanted this dark, dark intense eye,” he said. Beginning with Nars’ Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil (launching in the spring) and creating a circular shape, he then layered it with eyeshadow in “Night Flight,” a dense midnight blue with a sheen, and for additional sparkle, shadow in “Tropic” on top. “A smoky edge is important,” he said. “It makes [the look] softer and not so hard and theatrical.” To keep the eyes looking big, Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in “Rue Bonaparte” was drawn on the waterlines. Cream Blush in “Penny Lane” enhanced cheeks as well as lips, which also received a helping of lipgloss in “Nana,” a purple-y pink hue. Working with the same reference, manicurist Deborah Lippmann used “Lady Sings the Blues,” a glittery navy, on short, rounded nails. “But they wanted it to feel really like a starry night so we’ve added tons of extra large particles of glitter,” she revealed.
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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: Matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung

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The matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung were gorgeous at first glance, but look a little closer, and they were blackened in the center. Since the designer was inspired by Japanese photographer Araki’s shots of exotic blooms (as well as aggressive-looking nudies, we just discovered while Googling him), he asked makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury to create the illusion of “this orchid that was sort of coming out of the lips.” To do that, she used M.A.C. Pro Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil to slightly overdraw the lips “like they’ve been kissing,” while MAC Pro Pigments in “Burgundy,” “Fuschia,” and “Black” provided the slightly ombre effect to mimic the flower. Cheekbones were contoured for “slight definition and structure” with cream bronzer. Next, silver grey shadow was stroked across the sockets of the eyes, and Strobe Cream was added on top for a gleam. To create highlights, Luna Cream Color Base was blended in a C shape around the temple and eyes and a lick of mascara and gelled up brows finished the look. On nails, Jin Soon Choi used Sally Hansen’s “Loves Me Not,” a dark purple with subtle glitter, as the main tone “to make a strong statement” edged by “Lacy Lilac” “to show a soft side.”
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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: Pink powdered hair and gold nails at Thakoon

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There was a distinct cloud of dust hovering in the air backstage at Thakoon. Some models were coughing, a drop cloth had been laid on the floor, and there was a film of particles covering my iPhone. The culprit? Clay powders of varying shades that hair stylist Odile Gilbert had Fed Ex’d from Europe where they’re sold in pharmacies and health food stores. Applying it to the girls—either mixed with water or in its innate, powdery texture—was a nod to Holi, the annual festival of colour in India where the civilians throw coloured powder and water at each other. To give the illusion of bobs—albeit ones with tons of texture—hair was braided up into two different styles. (And yes, they were washing everything out post-show.) As an extension of the Indian influence, nails were painted with Nars nail polish in “Versailles,” a pale gold.
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Fashion » At the shows

NYFW backstage beauty: Red lips and bobby pins at Jason Wu

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The humidity in New York right now may be horrible for hair, but it’s doing wonders for skin. It helps to explain the luminous skin witnessed backstage at Jason Wu, first prepped with skincare by Sunday Riley. “A lot of the girls are coming from Peter Som where the makeup was heavier, so we’re leaving cleanser on for a little bit longer,” explained Riley. A pump of her lactic acid cream was included for additional exfoliation. Then it was off into the hands of makeup artist Diane Kendal, who perfected skin with concealer, and blotted T-zones with powder. Taking direction from Wu’s inspiration for his collection of ‘50s and ‘90s Pop Art, as well as NYC artist KAWS, Kendal painted bright-red tomato mouths using a trifecta of product: M.A.C. Lip Pencil in “Redd,” a yet-to-be-launched lipstick shade called “Scarlet Ibis,” and M.A.C. Pigment in “Neon Orange.” Mascara was skipped, but lids were treated to a thin black line close to the lashes and smudged “to give eyes some definition.” OPI’s “Monsooner Than Later”—a near match to the lips—was applied to fingers, while “Samoan Sand,” a nude, was painted on toes.
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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

NYFW backstage beauty: Tom Pecheux’s metallic love affair at Doo.Ri

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Photography by Chelsea Lauren/Stringer

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s love affair with metallics continues. At Doo Ri, he created a face that was “very nude,” he said. “We’re just playing with texture.” After matting out the T-zone, he used M.A.C. Metal X Cream Shadow in “Fusion Gold,” launching in the spring, all around the eyes, hitting the brow, extending it to the temples and onto the cheekbones. On cheeks, he used a matte peach colour “as a contour, not a blush—that would be too girly” and lips were treated to a “slightly beigey, peachy pink colour” called “Innocence Beware.” To keep his glowy goddess effect discreet, he left lashes bare. “And I promise, it’s not because I wanted to be lazy” he said. Manicurist Jin Soon Choi coated nails in one coat of Zoya’s “Helen,” a nude with a subtle shimmer.
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Beauty

Toronto’s new Pretty Beauty & Books is good clean fun

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The modern eco-savvy girl differs from the granola set when it comes to her beauty wares: it’s got to be vanity table-display worthy. At Toronto’s Pretty Beauty & Books (587 Markham Street, 905 580-0285, prettybeautyandbooks.com), which just had its grand opening last Saturday, pretty packaging is a non-negotiable; therefore, something you won’t find is “soap wrapped in twine” says owner—and former FASHION beauty intern—Andrea Victory. She stocks her shelves with gorgeous, synthetic-free lines such as editorial makeup artist Rose-Marie Swift’s RMS Beauty, water-based nail polish Scotch Naturals (“rated safest on the market”) and Tallulah Jane fragrances, made using old world, pre-lab methods such as distillation and enfleurage.
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