Not all faux glows are created equal. Here’s our self tanning how-to guide to get you through summer the healthy way

Date May 30, 2012

By Malena Harbers

Today, it’s all about customizing your tan,” says skin-care expert Nichola Joss, who created a variety of caramel tones for models at the Spring 2012 shows of British designers such as Issa and House of Holland. Designed to work with the spirit of each collection, Joss’s handiwork illustrates the idea that one hue indeed does not fit all. By adding, omitting or changing the way you apply a product, you can create a completely different-looking tan. Here, we break down the shades.

SUN-KISSED
Suntan equivalent:
A day out in the garden
Seen at: Roksanda Ilincic

MID-TONE
Suntan equivalent:
A long-weekend at the cottage
Seen at: Erdem

HOLOGRAPHIC
Suntan equivalent:
A week in the Mediterranean
Seen at: House of Holland

BRONZE
Suntan equivalent:
Weeks of sun-worshipping in Brazil
Seen at: Issa

SUN-KISSED
Suntan equivalent: A day out in the garden
Seen at: Roksanda Ilincic

“It’s all about a finished look to the skin paired with a very light tan,” says Joss. This airbrushed effect is achieved by misting an aerosol tanning spray over skin. Either a wash-off or a self-tan formula will work, since the lightness of the colour is created by the spray application. “Hold the can 12 inches away from your skin and gently work around the body in big, sweeping motions,” instructs Joss. “It settles very lightly on the skin and evens out skin tone, resulting in a very gentle flush.” To finish, smooth a violet illuminator down the front of the legs, over the calves, on the top of the shoulders and across the décolletage. “Those blue and pink tones bring the skin to life,” she says. “It makes it very luminous and radiant.”

Rodial Airbrush Brazilian Tan Self-Tanning Spray ($45, at the Bay); Victoria’s Secret Beach Sexy Instant Bronze Body Spray ($14, victoriassecret.com); IS Infinity Sun Glow on the Go Sunless Tanning Spray ($40, infinitysun.com)

MID-TONE
Suntan equivalent: A long-weekend at the cottage
Seen at: Erdem

Neither too pale nor too dark, this tan is flattering for many skintones. Think of it as the perfect accessory to summer’s pastel prints. It’s a mid-tone colour with a highly polished finish to it, says Joss, who gently dry-brushes the skin with an exfoliating mitt first to get a brightened effect. Next, she mixes a wash-off tanning lotion with a hydrating body butter and buffs it into the skin for a rich, lit-from-within glow. “I use an application mitt to massage it in,” she says, adding that this makes the colour go a bit deeper than an airbrushing gun or aerosol spray. For a longer-lasting glow, use a self-tan lotion instead of an instant bronzer. “After applying it, put on dark clothes and let the colour develop overnight. In the morning, shower and moisturize heavily.”

Burt’s Bees Mango & Orange Body Butter ($13, at the Bay); Mary Kay Subtle Tanning Lotion ($20, marykay.ca); Kibio Self-Tanning Cream Face and Body ($30, at Shoppers Drug Mart); Sisley Tinted Body Sun Glow Gel ($124, at Holt Renfrew)

HOLOGRAPHIC
Suntan equivalent: A week in the Mediterranean
Seen at: House of Holland

This tan is still quite light but it’s deeper and more golden than the first two. Use an applicator mitt to gently buff a self-tan mousse into the skin to give it a golden base. You don’t need to prep skin because the application mitt gently polishes it and brings blood to the surface at the same time as adding colour, says Joss. “Massage the mousse into skin, working with the contours of your body instead of smoothing it up and down.” The finishing touch is a rosy tint that adds depth to the colour and, as an added bonus, creates the illusion of curves. For the full effect, drench skin in a pastel-tinged glow by slicking layers of rose-tinted liquid illuminator over your base, or dab it over key areas of the body to act as a highlighter.

St. Tropez Rose skin Illuminator ($29) and Self Tan Bronzing Mousse ($38, both at Sephora); Jergens Natural Glow Foaming Daily Moisturizer ($10, at drugstores)

BRONZE
Suntan equivalent: Weeks of sun-worshipping in Brazil
Seen at: Issa

The trick to keeping this deep tan as natural as possible is finding the right self-tan formula. “In the past, people didn’t want a dark tan because you had to layer on products and it made your skin look very one-dimensional and flat,” says Joss. The newest products on the market give that same deep golden colour but go on as a sheer mist. Use two layers of a deep-tanning, instant bronzing spray. “It’s so sheer, you can layer it without overloading on product,” she says. The darker the tan, the more prep work is necessary. Joss suggests a three-step process of exfoliation, hair removal and moisturizing before applying any type of deep-tanning product. For a night out, sweep a gold-based bronzer (avoid a formula with too much glitter) over areas of the body that reflect light.

Biotherm Self Tanning Gel ($30, biotherm.ca); Miracle 10 Body Light Glow ($70, miracle10.com); Nuxe Body Fondant Body Scrub ($26, at department stores)