Ones to watch: Kat Marks is the latest Canadian to conquer London

Date February 1, 2011

February 11 Kat Marks 1 — Photography by Paul Hine. Millinery by Niamh Flanagan.

Everyone loves a Canadian designer in London. From Erdem to Mark Fast to Thomas Tait, it’s a whole new boys’ club over there. But they better make room for one serious creative force of a girl: Kat Marks.

The Calgary native graduated from the Ryerson School of Fashion in 2008. I’ve never forgotten her work at the grad show. While most of her peers were fussily reinventing the cocktail dress, Marks was making balloon-shouldered bodysuits and plastic torsos with jutting hips. Think Margiela, but at a sex shop. Soon after leaving Ryerson, off Marks went to the London College of Fashion, where she got her Masters in Fashion Artefact and all the right kinds of attention.

Today, Marks’ fashion film, The Karass, premieres at SHOWStudio.com. No big deal: it’s just the major-est, most respected avant-garde fashion force in the whole UK. And yes, the short is shot by the site’s mastermind and genius image-maker, Nick Knight himself!

Experience the video for yourself, but be sure to keep in mind that every interchangeable piece of these hyper real tuxedo-like breastplates was made by Marks’ own hands: the vegetable-dyed, heat-moulded leathers, the manipulated bits of brass and the Perspex, which was hand-etched (“tattooed,” she says) with ink.

How did Marks and this bizarre, wearable-but-just-barely work get such a spectacular break? She didn’t. She sent an email. Alexander Fury, fashion director of SHOWStudio, “got it” right away. “It is rare to see pieces as distinctive and strong as Kat Marks’ work,” he says in a press release for the film. “Rare on the catwalks, and certainly rare in a designer so young.”

And so here’s the mega-talented Ms. Marks in her own words, typed over Skype and delivered straight to you.

Feb 11 Kat Marks 2 — PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL HINE

Can you describe your collection in 10 words that you like?

Sleek, rigid, chest plates, leather bibs, tuxedo bowties, art deco, tribal influence.

I can’t count. Looks good! How many pieces are there in total, and how many looks?

There are 12 looks in total. All the components are interchangeable, meaning too many to count. The pieces are a mix between jewellery and clothing. Some people like to describe them as something you would wear to “spice up” the plain white shirt or suit.

You’re a Viktor & Rolf fan, yes?

Yes, I would like to work for them.

Whom else do you admire, whether it is a designer or an artist?

I really like the work of Jan Saudek. I like the figures and how he works with them. He captured this one woman, and she became my “muse” for this collection.

Whom are you most hoping will see your work on SHOWstudio?

I want it to be seen by large, somewhat traditional fashion houses that are looking for innovative and passionate young designers. Someone who wants to work with me, yes, hire me. Without sounding egotistical, I want to go to the top.

So what’s at the top, then? Would you rather be a creative director for a major house, or have your own name as your brand?

Creative director. I lean towards research, developing concept, and I enjoying seeing that concept come to fruition, whether through film or photograph.

Is there a particular creative director you like, or admire?

Oh god, I know nothing about the industry. I should probably know what I’m getting myself into. Ah well, no guts no glory. But the process is joyful, too.