Fashion
At the shows
Paris: Wunderkind, Paul & Joe and Hermès Fall 2009

HERMÈS Fall 2009. Photography by Peter Stigter
What day is it? Which show am I at? What’s my name? I’ve started to slip into the delusional state that is called “almost the end of fashion week”, where it all becomes a blur of coltish legs and directional hair. Get on the metro, wait in line, clothes, pretty! Get on the metro, wait in line, clothes, pretty! Get lost on the metro, wait in line, clothes, pretty!
The day starts at Wunderkind (I think), where all the chatter in the front row is about the Fendi party tonight. Beth Ditto is DJ-ing, natch. The biggest shoulders of a shoulder-y week strut down the runway in the form of a stiff silk top—or at least I think its silk. They don’t believe in line sheets in Paris. So gauche!—fastened with a massive bow. The show’s inspirational touchstone of Suprematism, the early-twentieth-century Russian abstract art movement, meant dizzying painting-like geometric prints on dresses and tights and animal images on dresses and coats.
At Paul & Joe there was more of the thigh-high leather boots that are emerging as a trampy little trend this season, and again with variations on full jumpsuits, blousy pants that taper below the knee, another full animal print on a short silk caftan and a party-girl quartet of fully-sequined micro minis.
The gents in the 13th arrondissement have finally figured out that something weird is happening, as a gaggle of them is now competing with the style paparazzi to ogle the international Beautiful set outside the Hermès venue. A dastardly metro mishap means I’m pretty much the last to arrive and have to scurry past the entire room and almost fall in Grace Coddington’s lap to get to my seat seconds before the lights go down. “Oh wow!” says Hilary Alexander, as a distinct aviator theme takes flight with a set complete with spinning vintage plane propellers and looks styled with Amelia Earhart-esque flying caps, goggles and bomber jackets. I can barely focus on the show because I’m busy watching Alexander make lickety-split (and rather good!) sketches of the looks in her notebook. Nothing terribly surprising on the runway, but its all assured and I can definitely see some of these Paris girls in the full leather jumpsuit!
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marita
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