http://www.fashionmagazine.com/blogs/fashion/at-the-shows/2009/10/02/the-paris-fashion-week-review-belles-of-the-bals/ Daily updates from FASHION magazine Sat, 11 Feb 2012 21:08:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.4 http://www.fashionmagazine.com/blogs/fashion/at-the-shows/2009/10/02/the-paris-fashion-week-review-belles-of-the-bals/#comment-5420 Sandra Ericson Sat, 10 Oct 2009 16:50:19 +0000 http://www.fashionmagazine.com/blogs/?p=8791#comment-5420 Having watched a few turnovers at Vionnet, I lit a candle for the the current fellow -- hoping that they picked a winner but, alas, I miss Sophia Kokosalaki, the best so far. Madeleine Vionnet was a woman who understood her own body and organically felt that wearing clothes was fundamentally a marriage of the fabrics and the anatomy. She cut with rhythm and precision, following the direction of the muscles and kinetic energy of a physically and politically free woman. Her clothes let the person come through and could be geometric and feminine at the same time. In the current Vionnet season, all seems to miss these goals -- color blocks that break up grace and the body, fabrics that drape but are not handled to deliver shaping, the whole too busy to be elegant (or worn by serious people), tenuously secured, unattractive proportions -- all is broken Vionnet, seemingly done on the run. I am disappointed, again. Having watched a few turnovers at Vionnet, I lit a candle for the the current fellow — hoping that they picked a winner but, alas, I miss Sophia Kokosalaki, the best so far. Madeleine Vionnet was a woman who understood her own body and organically felt that wearing clothes was fundamentally a marriage of the fabrics and the anatomy. She cut with rhythm and precision, following the direction of the muscles and kinetic energy of a physically and politically free woman. Her clothes let the person come through and could be geometric and feminine at the same time. In the current Vionnet season, all seems to miss these goals — color blocks that break up grace and the body, fabrics that drape but are not handled to deliver shaping, the whole too busy to be elegant (or worn by serious people), tenuously secured, unattractive proportions — all is broken Vionnet, seemingly done on the run. I am disappointed, again.

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