NYFW diary: Vera Wang, Marc by Marc and a private appointment at Tom Ford

MARC BY MARC JACOBS Spring 2011. Photography by Peter Stigter

Yesterday was a gem of a day. Along with my morning tea, I started the day previewing fine jewellery designer Monique Péan’s gorgeous new collection.

While there was no sign of First Lady Michelle Obama (who reportedly counts Péan’s pieces among her faves), it was inspiring to see how many other fans this CFDA runner-up has gathered in such a short time.

Speaking of fans, the NY social set, including Marina Rust, Marjorie Gubelmann and Helen Lee Schifter, was glossed, polished and freshly blown-out for the Vera Wang show. Gubelmann brought along her gal-pal (latest project?) The Hills Stephanie Pratt, who lit up when Elle’s Joe Zee crossed the floor to introduce himself.

Wang’s spring show was decidedly drab in comparison to all of the nudes and dusty desert hues seen this week. Among the many black on black looks (hey, she is a New Yorker after all) there were a few floral prints for those looking to colour their world come spring. Signature Wang accents were woven throughout the collection–a tulle trim here, a jewel encrusted neck plate there.  Perfect for the toughened up modern-day romantic.

Over at Herve Leger, Max and Lubov Azria were having a Marie Antoinette moment. Spring’s line-up of rubberized prints and intricately woven bandages took a page from 18th century corsetry and lace. Sleek boning created a sculpted, hourglass silhouette perfectly accented with sugarcoated pastel shades of peach and blush. Get ready to show off your sensual side this spring!

Marc by Marc Jacobs started late. Very unusual given MJ’s strict start times of late. There were a whopping 64 looks in his Spring 2011 men’s and women’s collections.

Highlights: Ivory canvas sneaker wedges, camo silk tops (lots of camo on and carried by eds this week too!), cheery striped dresses and the drawstring bags.

Jourdan Dunn walked in the show, her first of the week.  Big love for Dunn.

Okay, so I have saved the best for last–my private appointment at Tom Ford on Madison Avenue to view his new womenswear collection. I was taken upstairs, beyond the in-store velvet rope and immaculately dressed security guard (“No cameras allowed and no picture taking whatsoever”) to three rooms filled with Tom’s brilliance.

Everything in the collection has a couture-like quality, such attention to detail. The first room housed the 32-piece show collection, modeled by Beyoncé, Marisa Berenson and Daphne Guinness, just to name a few of the heavy hitters.

Gold sequin column gowns, leopard print, mesh and satin needle nose heels, Tom’s “summer fur”, a shredded organza cropped jacket in blush (worn by Joan Smalls the night before).  It’s all about power dressing.  The new power dressing.

Everything is below the knee in the collection and there is a real 20s/60s inspiration given all of the flapper-style fringe (but oh-so-sexy) and gorge silk poet blouses.

The second room housed the accessories (can I just live in that room please?). Here you’ll find the Tom Ford signature bag (or what will be the Tom Ford signature bag once the celebs start wearing the collection in December. Yes, that’s right. All good things come to those who wait), sleek flap-over shoulder bags with his extra-wide (for your zipping pleasure) gold zipper.  Two words: wait list.

Also, on hand amongst the chunky quartz necklaces, tortoise detailed bags and sheer pointy-toed flats, is fashion’s next big thing: cat-eye aviators. Cha-ching!

The third room was home to the commercial pieces such as suede blouses, military camp shirts, tuxe jackets and vests (total cohesion between his men’s and women’s line).

In short, yes, it is worth the hype. Tom Ford for mayor.

Click the images below to see looks from Marc by Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Rodarte and Herve Leger or read our full coverage of New York Fashion Week»

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