All posts under ‘London fashion week’


Fashion

They said/We said: The British Fashion Council has announced that a new menswear fashion week is coming to London

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Photo by Peter Stigter

Good news for gentlemen everywhere—the British Fashion Council has announced the creation of a new menswear fashion week. Dubbed London’s “fashion long week(end),” the new shows will run for three days starting June 15 and also precede Milan and Paris men’s fashion weeks every January and June.

The planning committee, run by GQ editor Dylan Jones, has been under pressure to re-establish British menswear—the fashion long weekend’s previous incarnation as a one-day event lost buyers and press because it overlapped with the first day of Milan womenswear collections. This year there may still be some timing conflicts: the debut shows are expected to be a big to-do, as they’ll fall smack dab in the middle of the London 2012 Olympics hullabaloo. Read more »


Fashion

They said/We said: British-based fashion design houses have been ordered to pay their interns

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Photography by Peter Stigter

For the past few months, we’ve been following reports that Britain’s Revenue and Customs is planning a raid on the fashion design houses that benefit from the use of unpaid interns. Yesterday, all 102 companies that participated in last London Fashion Week were issued a warning: starting in 2012, no fashion house, regardless of its size, is allowed to enlist the help of unpaid interns. Each company must either pay their interns at least the minimum wage of £6.08 an hour or find a way to do without.

For some companies, the switch is a fast and easy one—Stella McCartney has already changed its policy, and starting in January will offer paid positions only. This will be more of a challenge for newcomers and smaller designers, whose budgets don’t include being able to pay their extra help. “Most people who are starting out in the industry just don’t have the funds,” explains SIBLING’s Cozette McCreery to Elle UK. “It’s just done with love, and that’s it. When the main designers aren’t getting paid—if you can’t find money to pay yourself—it’s really difficult to find money to pay others.”

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Fashion

They said/We said: The fashion week feud rages on, with Milan firing back!

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Photography by Peter Stigter

You’ve already heard about the kafuffle caused by fashion week scheduling next fall, that timing for MFW is going to overlap with both LFW and PFW. Quelle horror! To make matters much worse, a press release surfaced this morning from the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in which Milan responds to New York, London, and Paris’ unwillingness to alter their fashion week schedules, and claiming that a written agreement from 2010 had MFW scheduled to take place between the 19th and 25th of September—as per usual—and which they’ve decided they’ll stick to. Dun dun dun…

But here comes the real drama: today’s statement from the Italian board of directors reads: “Such an accuse, in addition to representing an aggressive and arrogant attitude towards CNMI, used unfair argumentation in order to impose—in a unilateral way—not shared decisions. In conclusion, the Board of Directors and the Designers’ Roundtable have unanimously decided to confirm the schedule as it was previously announced on March 17th 2010: [MFW] will be held from Wednesday 19th to Tuesday 25th of September 2012.”

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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

LFW backstage beauty: A red wine–stained, snogged mouth at Giles

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“It’s all about a red wine–stained, snogged mouth,” said Lucia Pieroni of the makeup at Giles Spring 2012 show, applying M.A.C’s lip pencil in “Brick” onto the inside of the mouth and “Burgundy” on top, blended outward with a Q-tip. “There’s no defined line around the edge, but it’s quite dark in the middle.” The rest of the face was quite bare—a smidge of “Russian Red” lipstick on the cheeks, rubbed in with a large brush and a bit of lip balm on the eyelids, tops of the cheeks, and on the bridge of the nose for a bit of highlight.
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Beauty » Backstage Beauty

LFW backstage beauty: Swishy ponytails and Chloë Sevigny at Erdem

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While Erdem Moralioglu showed Anna Wintour his pieces backstage (and everyone tried to stay out of their way), hair and makeup artists buzzed about in frenzy—this was one backstage that was not so calm. Inspired by “south of France chic” and Chloë Sevigny, Charles Worthington himself created a high, soft, and swishy ponytail to match the sophisticated, utterly gorgeous spring collection. Starting with Charles Worthington Front Row Volume Blow Dry Spray to give the roots a “sort of fluffy texture,” the girls’ hair was then pulled back and secured a two-finger width below the crown with a black elastic. Heat Defence Spray was sprayed over the ponytail to give it a bit of shine, and then a large barrel iron was applied to the ends to give them a bit of bend. “It all has a slightly soft, spontaneous look to it,” said Worthington.
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Scene

SNP’s word of the day: Austerity

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Illustration by Lewis Mirrett

Word: Austerity

Meaning: In economics, an un-fun time of deficit-cutting through strictly curbed spending; in fashion, a modest, almost severe style of dress.

Usage: “The public will only accept continuing austerity if it is seen to be fair.” ― Vince Cable, U.K. business secretary, via the Guardian
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Fashion » At the shows

Ohmigod this is exciting: Pippa Middleton spotted in front row at Temperley!

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Peaches Geldof, Rosario Dawson, Pippa Middleton, guest, and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld at yesterday's Temperley show by Tim Whitby/Stringer

Spotted amongst the front row usuals at yesterday’s Temperley show at the British Museum in London: none other than Pippa Middleton! Guys! Do you know what this means? Pippa’s officially courting the fashion spotlight! (Yes, we realize the amount of exclamation points accompanying this post.) While sister Duchess Kate is off do-gooding with Prince William, it seems apparent that Pippa’s ready to start enjoying the spoils of her new quasi-royal status and we daresay, bring it on. The front row could use more Middleton, and (way) less Kardashian.


Fashion » At the shows

LFW diary: A day of standouts from Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane, Burberry, Mark Fast, and Giles! (Woah!)

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Christopher Kane shot by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty Images

Today was a day of standouts at London fashion week, from Peter Pilotto to Christopher Kane and Erdem. The other shows today? Burberry, Mark Fast, and Giles, all of which included some great pieces. Burberry had cropped parkas, African-inspired geometric beading, and straw riding hats with pompoms, while Mark Fast featured looser knits—almost crochet-like, in some cases—on dresses. At Giles we saw swan headpieces by Stephen Jones and laser-cut red leather gown worn by our very own Kate King.
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