“It’s more about a mood than a theme,” said M.A.C makeup key Melissa Gibson of the beauty look for Sid Neigum’s Spring 2013 show. Featuring a strong eyebrow, smoky eyes and matte skin, Gibson referenced Helmut Newton and “Cindy Crawford in the ’90s” as inspiration. “It’s not just a heavy black smoky eye…there’s an edge to it, the fleck of grey metallic in there brightens it up for spring and summer.” To build this graphic-yet-soft look, she used a mix of three M.A.C eyeshadows–“Carbon,” “Print” and “Typographic” ($18 each, maccosmetics.com)—diffusing the pigment across the eye and blending out any straight lines. Fluidline eyeliner in “Blacktrack” ($18, maccosmetics.com) was also diffused at the lashline and lashes were curled and given two coats of mascara for extra drama. But it was two winged-out lines across the brows that completed the look, which was a last minute addition from Gibson: “At the end I threw on that eyebrow and that did it!” Read more »
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Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: It’s all about aerodynamic hair and makeup at Sid Neigum
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In the fashion realm, Carine Roitfeld looms large. Her styling work—for French Vogue, Chanel, Givenchy—is memorable, and her role in the rise of talented designers and photographers like Tom Ford and Mario Sorrenti has been well documented. But her beauty influence has mostly been limited to those who obsessively follow fashion week street-style shots of her, with her smudged-black eyes and unbrushed hair falling over her face. So it’s a pleasant surprise that M.A.C, a company known for thinking well outside the model/pretty celebrity box, has asked the 57-year-old stylist and editor to compose a collection of cosmetics (from $18, maccosmetics.com) and pose for its campaign. “I think it is smart, because to be beautiful is not just about being a classic beauty. There is something subtler but more touching in you that is beautiful too,” says Roitfeld when we meet at the New York flagship bookstore of Rizzoli, the publisher of Irreverent, her glossy scrapbook memoir of last year. Wearing a camouflage Junya Watanabe sweater, YSL pencil skirt and bright green Balenciaga stiletto sandals, with that smoky liner and no lipstick, she’s typically un-“done” and exudes cool, though her warm manner is far from the frosty fashion stereotype. Read more »
Inspired by Spain’s rich cultural traditions and mythologies, Moschino’s Spring 2012 collection definitely brought the drama. Models sashayed with toreador swagger, wearing ruffled dresses, jingling gold bells and even donning bullfighter hats. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux dreamed up a look that was a tribute to Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, anchored by a strong brow, dramatic smoky eyes and contoured cheeks. The smudginess of the eyes had a painterly quality that was a perfect accompaniment to the vivid collection.
Since the classic black smoky eye is essentially the makeup equivalent of a little black dress, this is a great and wearable look for any special event. We’ll share some tips and tricks for creating a Moschino-worthy version that will stay put all night long.
By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel
Makeup artists and hairstylists drew inspiration from girls hitting the summer music festival circuit with dishevelled, centre-parted strands and slept-in smoky eyes. Dsquared threw its own concert, sending models down the muddy runway with hippie hair that was “Kate Moss at Glastonbury,” explained hairstylist Sam Mc-Knight, while at Alexis Mabille, tiny daisies were tucked into textured hair for a Lilith Fair feel. At Emilio Pucci, makeup artist Lisa Butler’s roughly smudged black liner with hits of copper and gold paid homage to an ’80s Madonna, with a side of gypsy-esque free spirit. And when eyes weren’t rimmed in black, blue was the new black: For Emanuel Ungaro, Charlotte Tilbury gave eyes a wet look by mixing teal and navy with noir and layering gloss on top. Likewise at Rodarte, models wore a smoky eye with a spin; makeup maven James Kaliardos gave lids a navy wash that winked at Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night.
What’s the easiest way to create a smokey eye?
The simplest method to create a smokey eye is by applying shadow all over your lids, then tracing a liner heavily along your upper lash line. After dipping your finger in moisturizer, blend the two textures into a colourful cream that you massage into your crease and below your lower lashes. Annabelle’s Smoothie Eyeshadow Pencil ($9, at Shoppers Drug Mart) makes your method even easier with its non-greasy liner/shadow blend that smoulders in vivid tones like blue, violet, and “Absinthe-Minded,” an Emerald-City green. Voila!
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These double-ended Smoky ShadowBlast crayons ($9, at drugstores) from CoverGirl will get some play in my makeup bag based on ease of use alone. Add your base colour with the rounded tip, then work the pointed end along the crease and lashline. Two steps. Done. Perfect for stashing in your bag for quick touch-ups or after work events.
If there is one thing that gave me cause for celebration at Toronto Fashion Week it is the return of smoky eyes and bed head. The ‘Whoops, I went to bed last night without taking off my eye makeup and there is no time to shower’ look is the only one I have ever been able to pull off successfully.
I had a chance to chat backstage at Fashion Week with L’Oréal Paris official hair artist Eric Del Monaco and official makeup artist Eddie Maleterre, and get the inside scoop on what they were creating for the collections.
FASHION has two brand new Beauty 101 videos premiering today.
French Twist: Beauty director Adriana Ermter talks to stylist Daniel Naumovski about constructing this pretty, easy updo option.
WATCH: BEAUTY 101 FRENCH TWIST
Smoky Eye: Adriana gets a step-by-step on creating this super popular look from M.A.C artist Melissa Gibson–including which brushes to use!
WATCH: BEAUTY 101 SMOKY EYE