Drink: Sommeliers’ Select Summer Wines
Canada's most respected sommeliers share their favourites.
“Rosé, like Malivoire’s Ladybug Rosé. I like them a year in bottle; it mellows a bit. From the Rhône, Yves Cuilleron’s Sybel Rosé kicks ass.” —Stephen Beckta, Beckta Dining & Wine, Ottawa
“German riesling from 2001 and 2002—refreshing,
and the acidity is there. In reds, burgundy.”
—
Patrik St. Vincent, Bu Bar à Vin, Montreal
“Dry rosés from Tavel are great with cold lamb salads or bouillabaisse, and cool Ontario rieslings with grilled pickerel or halibut. New Zealand pinot noirs for chanterelle and morel salad, and sparkling icewine with fresh berry salads and crème fraîche or rhubarb strudel.” —Sara d’Amato, Truffles, Toronto
“Vinho verde or rosé in the summer. Blasted Church’s Lemberger Rosé is not too alcoholic. A new [Okanagan] winery called Joie does a pinot noir rosé. Beaujolais, dolcetto and barbera are all lighter. A really good cru beaujolais is the 2003 Saint-Amour [France] and the Brouilly [France].” —Barbara Philip, The Fish House, Vancouver
“Henry of Pelham’s Cuvée Catherine Brut Rosé, and the 2004 merlot rosé from 13th Street—full-bodied, off-dry, refreshing acidity and long finish. They’re highly food-versatile, gutsier. Also, unoaked Greek whites are light and fresh—especially from the assyrtiko grape—and Portuguese vinho verde and Spanish verdelho. In reds, local gamay and pinot noir, even baco noir, lightly chilled.” —Zoltan Szabo, Il Mulino, Toronto
“Ontario gamay is the quintessential picnic wine; it’s good with chicken, saucisson, soft-rind cheeses, triple creams and not-too-stinky brie. Or whites from Santorini with seafood.” —John Szabo, Szabo & Szabo, Toronto
“Cava [Spanish sparkling wine]—people should be stocking their fridges with it for breakfast. The Codorníu Brut Classico at $10.95 is ridiculous. I love cava with cheese; it’s usually what I promote in the summer—a couple fresh goat cheeses and a glass of cava. And we’ll go full force with [Spanish] albariño. Let’s cut back on the chardonnay, and bring the fresh.” —Anton Potvin, Niagara Street Cafe, Toronto
“I’ll go with wines from the south of France. Wines from Languedoc have mineral flavours, not a lot of richness. It’s a subtle region. And the Clos du Bourg demi-sec vouvray from Domaine Huet—it’s awesome.”— Jonathan Fillion, Habitat, Toronto
First published in FASHION Magazine July 2006
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Alexandra Innes writes:
I like a Rosé which is not too alcoholic, so more than one glass can be enjoyed without concern.
—posted June 26, 2006 at 8:50 p.m.
victor york writes:
Thankfully the Canadian Cabarnets are making their mark finally. The rest of the wine community worldwide is usually 10 years late to our joys.
—posted September 2, 2006 at 12:57 p.m.
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